Planting and caring for indoor hyacinth at home. Hyacinths - planting and care in the open field, recommendations Hyacinth flower home care

Many people want to pamper loved ones with fresh fragrant flowers for the winter holidays. For this, planting hyacinths at home is best suited. These delicate plants are among the first to bloom in the spring garden. But not everyone knows that they can be planted at home and, with proper care, achieve gorgeous flowering in the cold season.

Preparing bulbs for planting

Most bulbous plants can be planted in a pot on a windowsill. Hyacinth is no exception. In order for it to bloom at home, you need to select the largest and healthiest bulbs for planting.

The most popular varieties for home cultivation:

• "Lady Pink";
• "Aida";
• "Yang Boss";
• "Aqua";
• "Odysseus".

When a bud appears in a hyacinth in a flower bed in the spring, it is tedious to carefully cut it off. Then he will use all his strength to form the bulb. In June, these hyacinths are dug out of the backyard beds and the tubers are properly prepared for planting. The procedure requires patience and certain knowledge.

1. Choose large dense bulbs. It is desirable that they be at least 5 cm in diameter, without the slightest damage and traces of the disease.
2. Then lay out for a week to dry in a shady, well-ventilated place at an air temperature of about 20 degrees.
3. Next, you need to separate all the “children” from the tuber, clean the dead scales and roots.

The subsequent care of the bulbs is as follows: they must be left in a dark room for 3 months, while ensuring proper storage.

• In the first 2 months, hyacinths should be at a temperature of 25-26 C.
• In the third month, they should be transferred to a room with 17 C.
• After that, hold for 3 days in a cool place where the temperature ranges from 5 to 6 C, and then proceed to planting in pots.

In order for hyacinths to bloom well at home, it is important to observe the temperature regime. Novice flower growers sometimes fail to carry out such care for the bulbs, so they buy planting material in the store. They sell tubers that have already passed all stages of development.

Planting in pots

Planting time for indoor hyacinths depends on when you want to see flowering. If you are planning it for the New Year, it should be planted in the middle of the first month of autumn. You can get a bouquet of flowers on March 8 by planting tubers in the last days of October.

You will need wide, low pots. They will fit several bulbs. Put a layer of drainage on the bottom, then lay the soil. You can buy ready-made soil mix or make your own. You will need to take leafy, soddy, compost soil, peat and sand in the same proportion. Mix and use. Pour a thin layer of sand on top of the pots. It will not allow the roots of the plant to rot at home.

1. Make small indentations and place the hyacinth bulbs a few cm apart.
2. Lightly sprinkle them with sand so that the tops of the tubers are on the surface.

Now the plants for 2.5 months must be left alone. The pots must be taken to the basement or other place where the air temperature fluctuates between 5 and 7 C. They must be in complete darkness. If the room is bright, cover the pots with paper sheets.

Care during this period provides for regular moderate watering. Make sure the soil doesn't dry out. If the planting is carried out correctly, the tubers will take root well and will subsequently bloom beautifully at home.

What to do next?

At the end of the second month, hyacinths in a cold room release small green arrows. When they stretch to a height of 3 cm, they need to be taken out into the light in a warmer room. Place the pots on the loggia or on the veranda, where the temperature is cool enough. The optimal level is 12-15 degrees. Under such conditions, the plant should gain strength for a month, and eventually buds will begin to form on it. Now it can be brought in and put in a warm room in a permanent place. Flowers feel good in a lighted area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, which is protected from drafts and temperature changes.

1. Caring for hyacinths indoors is simple. Put them away from heating appliances and provide an average temperature of about 20 degrees.
2. Moisten the soil in time, but try not to flood the plant too much so that water does not stagnate in the pot.
3. It is desirable to provide additional lighting so that the pots are illuminated for at least 10 hours a day.
4. After a week, the buds will fully form and flowering will begin, which lasts at home for about 7-10 days.
5. Make sure that the room is cool, then the flowers will live longer.

During active flowering, the hyacinth sometimes begins to lean sideways and may break off. This happens because of a too heavy peduncle. To avoid this, place a support around the pot to support the flower.

Gardeners call the stages of preparing hyacinths for flowering in winter "forcing". If, out of inexperience, you did something wrong, this does not mean that the plant will not bloom. It's just that the flowers will be smaller, fall off faster, the leaves will stretch too high and begin to lean towards the ground. The main thing is to withstand the cold period after planting in pots. Without it, flowers are unlikely to be able to release buds.

How to plant hyacinth in water?

Recently, it has become fashionable to plant hyacinths in a container of water. To do this, you need to prepare the tubers, as for planting in the ground. Then, for each bulb, you need to take a glass container, fill it with filtered or spring water and place the plant there. It is important to ensure that the tuber does not drown completely in the liquid. It is necessary that only the bottom of the bulb comes into contact with water. Hyacinths need to provide a dormant time in a cool, dark place and wait until they sprout.

Care at this time consists in the timely addition of water to the container. Try to keep it from evaporating and keep the bulb roots moist at all times. When green arrows begin to sprout, mineral fertilizers can be added little by little to the liquid.

After 2.5 months, indoor hyacinth sprouts should be taken out to a bright room and provided with the same care as for flowers in pots.

top dressing

The soil is quickly depleted, so growing hyacinths at home will not be successful without regular feeding. It must be done several times, starting from the moment the first leaves appear.

Good care is provided by Fertimix. This fertilizer has a balanced content of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. In addition to them, the preparation contains vitamins B1, PP and B6. All these elements are vital for hyacinths.

1. For top dressing, draw a liter of clean water into a jar and dilute 2 caps of the drug in it.
2. To make flowering longer, it is allowed to increase the dose and use 3 caps of Fertimix.
3. Water the flower pots with liquid twice a month.

Such care at home will provide hyacinths with good nutrition, improve their growth and flowering.

How to prevent flower disease

In order for the hyacinth to be resistant to various diseases, you need to be careful about the choice of planting material and be sure to check that there are no signs of rot on it. For the prevention of fungal diseases, planting in the ground should not be carried out without prior treatment of tubers with fungicides. You can use the liquid remedy "Doctor Foley".

The main reason for the appearance of yellow leaves and the slow development of the plant at home is considered improper care. When watering hyacinths, be careful. Water should not fall on the bulb and flower leaves. Otherwise, rotting of the tuber may begin. Pour water near the edge of the pot, gently soaking the soil.

How to care after flowering?

When the lush buds droop, they should be cut with a sharp knife and thrown away. Continue to feed the hyacinth itself and provide it with proper care. Do this until the leaves wither. Then remove the tuber from the pot, remove the dry shoots and dry the bulb well. You can no longer plant it indoors. After the "forcing" the plant is very depleted and will not withstand the repeated procedure.

Plant it in the fall in the garden. In the open field, the hyacinth will recover and will be covered with flowers again the next year.

Thanks to the beauty and amazing tenderness of hyacinths, their cultivation is popular in many countries. In the spring, people take care of the flowers in the flowerbeds with pleasure, and in the fall they begin to “force” at home in order to decorate their homes with bright summer colors in the winter.

As you know, this flower is one of the first to bloom in the garden at the beginning of the season and pleases gardeners with bright and unusually fragrant flowers. Hyacinths amaze with an extensive range of colors: from white and pale yellow through different shades of pink and purple to burgundy, purple and even black. Hyacinth ( Hyacinthus) is a versatile plant that is suitable for open ground, for early forcing indoors, as well as for cutting. About the features of growing hyacinths - this article.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus). © Anastasia

Botanical description of the plant

The hyacinth bulb is dense, consisting of fleshy grassroots leaves, occupying with their bases the entire circumference of the bottom of the bulb. The flowering stem is a direct continuation of the bottom, which is nothing more than the lower, greatly shortened and thick part of the stem.

After the flowering of the hyacinth, the green flower-bearing stem, together with the green leaves sitting at the very bottom with it, dries up, but in the corner of the uppermost of the green leaves, a bud is formed on the stem, inside the bulb, which little by little grows and turns into a young bulb that blooms on next year. In this young hyacinth bulb, in autumn, the stalk with flowers of the next year is already completely laid, of course, in the most compressed form.

In addition to this young bulb, other weaker bulbs, the so-called babies, are often formed in the corners of the remaining green leaves, which can be separated. Three years later they can bloom.

Hyacinth flowers are collected at the top of the stem in the form of a brush. Their perianth, in the form of a bell-shaped funnel, is brightly colored and has curved lobes.

Fruit in the form of a leathery box with three nests containing two seeds each with a fragile skin.

Choosing a place for hyacinths in the garden

The place for hyacinths should be well lit and protected from strong winds. Some flower growers recommend planting them, like other bulbs, next to shrubs and trees. It is unlikely that this advice is good. Yes, there is enough sun in spring, but the roots of trees and shrubs absorb nutrients from the soil to the detriment of hyacinths.

The site for hyacinths is preferably flat, preferably with a slight slope, providing water runoff during spring snowmelt and during heavy rains. Prolonged flooding leads to mass diseases and the death of bulbs. Groundwater should lie no closer than 50-60 cm. At a high level, drainage is done or bulk ridges are arranged.

soil for hyacinths

Hyacinths need permeable, well-fertilized soils with a high content of humus, but fresh and slightly decomposed manure is unacceptable. River sand and peat are added to clay, dense soil. It is undesirable to grow hyacinths on acidic soils. Acidic soils must be limed using chalk or limestone to a pH of at least 6.5.

Planting hyacinths

Experts advise preparing a site for planting hyacinths back in August, two months before planting the bulbs, otherwise the natural sedimentation of the soil can cause the roots to break, which will begin to develop in the fall.

The soil must be deeply cultivated, to a depth of 40 cm. For digging, humus or rotted manure is introduced at the rate of 10-15 kg per 1 m2, sand, peat and mineral fertilizers: per 1 m2 60-80 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium sulfate and 15 g of magnesium sulfate.

Potassium sulfate can be replaced with 200 g of wood ash, and magnesium sulfate - 250 g of dolomite flour. On sandy soils, the doses of potash and magnesium fertilizers should be increased by 1.5 times. As for nitrogen fertilizers, they are best applied in the spring-summer period in the form of dressings.

In the conditions of central Russia, hyacinth bulbs are planted in late September - early October. If planted too early, hyacinths can start growing and die in winter, and if planted too late, they will not have time to take root before the soil freezes to the planting depth.

When planting hyacinths, D. G. Hession recommends, in addition to respecting the depth and density of planting, remember two things: firstly, choose not the largest bulbs for planting, which are intended for forcing, but medium-sized bulbs, the so-called "flower bed", giving more weather-resistant flower stalks; secondly, well-rotted compost or peat must be added to the wells during planting, if it was not added during the preliminary digging of the soil.

However, hyacinths can be planted until the first half of November. But then the place should be insulated in advance with leaves or other material from those at hand, and protected with a film from rain and snow. And after landing, lay the insulation again.

The feeding area of ​​hyacinth bulbs is 15x20 cm. The planting depth from the bottom of the bulbs is 15-18 cm for collapsible, large bulbs, about 5 cm in diameter. Small bulbs and babies are planted thicker and not so deep.

For hyacinths, as for all bulbs, landing in a "sand shirt" is very desirable.

At the same time, the technology does not change: pure river sand is poured into the bottom of the groove or hole with a layer of 3-5 cm. The bulb is slightly pressed into it, then covered with sand, and then with soil. This technique will eliminate the rotting of the bottoms of the bulbs, protect against infection in the soil, and improve drainage. If the ground is dry, plantings should be watered to improve the rooting of the bulbs.

Eastern hyacinth "Atlantic" (Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Atlantic’). © Villu Lukk Oriental hyacinth "Red Magic" (Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Red Magic’). © Villu Lukk Oriental hyacinth "Carnegie" (Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Carnegie’). © Villu Lukk

If there are a lot of hyacinths, they are planted on ridges 15-20 cm high to protect the bulbs from melt water. In spring, the ridges warm up quickly, they have good aeration of the upper layer. In addition, it is easy to install a film shelter on the ridges. Planted in rows at a distance of 20-25 cm, between adjacent bulbs in a row leave at least 3 bulb diameters (for adult bulbs -12-15 cm).

With the onset of persistent cold weather, it is advisable to think about sheltering plantings of hyacinths. To do this, you can use mulching materials such as dry peat, humus, sawdust, as well as dry fallen leaves and spruce branches, and in the spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw, the shelter must be carefully removed, since hyacinth sprouts appear very early.

Hyacinth Care

Hyacinths are a demanding crop. The soil around the plantings must be kept in a clean state, loosen it several times during the season, and be sure to water it in dry times (the water should soak the earthen ball to a depth of 15-20 cm). During the growing season, plants should be fed 2-3 times. An important preventive measure is the removal of diseased plants from the site (culling is carried out 2-3 times). The peduncle must be cut with a sharp knife; if the inflorescence is not cut off, then at the end of flowering it is necessary to cut off the flowers, leaving the peduncle.

Fertilizers for hyacinths can be applied dry or dissolved in water. In the latter case, fertilizers are taken somewhat less, and the soil is well moistened before fertilizing. The first feeding should be given at the beginning of plant growth (20-25 g of saltpeter and 15-20 g of superphosphate per square meter of plantings). 2nd - during the budding period (30-35 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate). 3rd - at the end of flowering (30-35 g of superphosphate and 30-35 g of potassium sulfate). Hyacinths can be fed with micronutrient fertilizers (applied in the same quantities as under tulips). After fertilizing, the soil is loosened, closing the fertilizer with a chopper.

Hyacinths after flowering

If the bulbs of Dutch hyacinths are left outdoors after flowering, they will bloom worse in the second year. Therefore, it is better to wait until the leaves of hyacinths turn yellow and dig up the bulbs.

The famous Russian florist A. Razin noted that the end of June-beginning of July is the best time to dig up hyacinths. Despite the troubles, the florist believed that one of the conditions for the successful cultivation of hyacinths is the annual digging of the bulbs. It allows you to inspect the bulbs, separate the babies for growing, process the bulbs in order to prevent diseases and protect against pests, and destroy diseased specimens. A. Razin dug up the bulbs, washed them with clean water, and then dried them under a canopy in the shade. The florist laid the bulbs dug, dried and peeled from leaves and roots for storage.

Storing hyacinth bulbs

Storing dug bulbs is the most crucial period. It is at this time that the process of inflorescence formation takes place in the bulb. Its various stages require different temperatures in a certain duration and sequence. Dug hyacinths are more demanding of heat than tulips or daffodils.

Immediately after digging, hyacinth bulbs are dried for 5-7 days at 20 ° C in a dark, ventilated room, cleaned of earth and root residues, then sorted by size and placed in boxes in no more than 2 layers. Small children are not separated.

If there are few bulbs, it is convenient to store them in paper bags with labels. Further storage of large flowering bulbs of hyacinths is recommended to be carried out in 2 stages: the first - at elevated temperatures, the second - pre-planting.

At the first stage, hyacinth bulbs contain at least 2 months at 25..26°C, and at the second - 1 month at 17°C. The humidity in the room should not be too low, otherwise the bulbs will dry out. If you want to shorten the first stage by a week, then in the first week of the first stage, raise the temperature to 30 ° C (the room must be well ventilated).

It is easy to calculate that the total duration of the preparatory period is not less than 95 days. Plus, before planting, it is useful to hold the hyacinth bulbs in a cold room at temperatures close to the outside. So it turns out that the bulbs, in order to plant them in the ground in the first decade of October, must be dug out later than the beginning of July. Late digging and storage of bulbs at too low a temperature are the main reasons for the further poor flowering of hyacinths.

Often during storage, numerous small babies form around the bottom of hyacinth bulbs. They break off easily, and therefore bulbs with children should be planted in the ground especially carefully. At the same time, the planting depth must be halved and it is imperative to cover the planted bulbs with a layer of mulch, increasing it compared to conventional shelter. Such children grow 4-5 years. It is very simple to cause their formation: immediately after digging, firmly wipe the bottom of the bulb with a dry cloth, removing the roots.

Propagation of hyacinths

When breeding new varieties of hyacinths, the seed method is used. Seedlings do not repeat the external signs of parent plants. They bloom only after 5-7 years. Seeds are sown in autumn, at the end of September, in boxes with soil composed of humus, leaf soil and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1, and grown for the first 2 years in cold greenhouses.

Natural reproduction of hyacinths is slow. For a year, an adult bulb, depending on the variety, forms 1-2 children, rarely 3 or 4, and even more rarely their number can reach 5-8.

If the hyacinth babies are well separated from the mother bulb, they are grown separately. If the children do not separate well, the daughter bulbs do not break off and the mother bulb with the children is planted.

In industrial floriculture, hyacinths do not propagate by natural division, but practice an artificial method of reproduction. To quickly obtain a large number of bulbs, they resort to special methods of forced reproduction of hyacinths.

Since the scaly leaves of the membranous bulbs are very large, cover almost the entire bulb and are not as easily separated from the base as the scales of the imbricate bulbs, until new plants form, the incised scaly leaves of the membranous bulbs should be left unseparated from the bottom.

This principle is used in two methods of reproduction by dissecting bulbs: cutting and cutting the bottom. True, in this case, the bulbs are first injured, and then slowly die.

Hyacinth bulbs intended for artificial propagation must undergo pre-treatment: they are disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, and then dried for at least 2 days at a temperature of +20..+23 ºС.

F. McMillan Brouse in the book "Propagation of Plants" describes in detail both methods of forced reproduction of hyacinths.

Cutting the bottom of hyacinth bulbs

This operation is carried out at the end of the dormant period of the bulbs. To successfully cut the bottom, minimally damaging the bulb, you should pick up a tool. It is best to use a teaspoon with a sharp edge for this, with which the bottom is cut out. The rest of the hyacinth bulb is left intact, and then it is checked whether all the scaly leaves have had their bases removed. This can be done with a knife, but it is easy to damage the center of the bulb with it.

To reduce the likelihood of diseases, the surface of cuts of scaly leaves is treated with a fungicide. The bulbs are placed in boxes in an inverted position, cut up. They can also be stored on wire mesh or a dry sand tray.

To cause the formation of callus at the base of the scales and delay the possible spread of diseases, the bulbs are kept at a temperature not lower than +21°C. After about two to three months, young onions form on the cuts of the scales. On one bulb of hyacinths, 20-40 children can form.

The mother bulb in the same inverted position is planted in a pot so that the children are slightly covered with the substrate. Plants are hardened and then kept in a cold greenhouse. In the spring, the bulbs will begin to grow and form leaves, and the old bulb will gradually collapse. At the end of the growing season, young bulbs are dug up, divided and seated for growing. Young plants can bloom in 3-4 years.

Cutting the bottom of hyacinth bulbs

Hyacinths can be propagated faster if you use a method similar to the previous one. The only difference is that instead of cutting the bottom, only a few cuts up to 0.6 cm deep are made on the bottom of the bulb.

On a large bulb of hyacinth, usually 4 cuts are made at right angles to each other (two intersecting cruciform ones), and on smaller ones, it is enough to make 2 cuts. In this case, the number of bulbs formed decreases, but they are larger.

Hyacinth bulbs are pre-disinfected in the same way as when cutting the bottom. The incised bulbs are placed for a day in a dry, warm place (+ 21 ° C): under these conditions, the incisions open better. When the incisions open, they are treated with a fungicide.

The subsequent operations and storage conditions of the bulbs are the same as in the previous method. As a result, onions are formed in the amount of 8-15 pieces, which will take 2-3 years to grow. Cutting and notching the bottom is used not only for the propagation of hyacinths. These methods are also used in the cultivation of daffodils, snowdrops, muscari, sprouts, white flowers.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus). © el islandes

Diseases and pests of hyacinths

In the open field in the middle lane, hyacinths almost do not suffer from diseases and pests. More dangers lie in wait for them in greenhouses and during forcing. If, nevertheless, hyacinths get sick in the flower garden, most often this is caused by:

1. Acquisition of already infected material;
2. Planting on heavy acidic waterlogged soil;
3. The use of fresh manure or excess mineral fertilizers;
4. Planting after unfavorable predecessors (other bulbs, as well as root crops);
5. The bulbs were not rejected during the growing season, after digging, during storage and before planting;
6. They forgot about prevention (treating the bulbs, and when forcing - the soil);
7. Landings were thickened.

When damaged by pests, hyacinths lag behind in growth, their flower stalks are twisted, there is early yellowing and wilting. For the prevention of bulbs before planting, they are pickled in one of the phosphorus-containing preparations for 15-20 minutes. Sick hyacinths are dug up and destroyed, and the rest are also treated with phosphorus-containing preparations.

Of the diseases, yellow bacterial rot is more common than others. With it, the tissues of the bulb turn into mucus with a sharp unpleasant odor. During the growing season, the disease can be detected by stunting, the appearance of stripes and spots on the peduncle and leaves, and their decay. Bulbs have clear signs of damage. In all cases, diseased plants and bulbs are destroyed (it is best to burn). The hole is etched with 5% formalin or bleach, where hyacinths can be returned only after a few years.

In hyacinths, the phenomenon of inflorescence loss is often encountered: the inflorescence, having barely appeared above the ground, falls out of the rosette of leaves. This phenomenon is not associated with a disease of the plant, but is explained by physiological reasons - an increase in root pressure. It is caused by excess moisture in the soil, storage of the bulbs at insufficiently high temperatures, and early planting of the bulbs.

Types of hyacinths

There are different views on the taxonomy of the genus. According to some researchers, it has up to 30 species, others consider it monotypic, i.e. with one species, but which has a large number of varieties and forms. Hyacinth grows wild in the countries of the Eastern Mediterranean and Central Asia.

From myself I will add a beautiful legend that is associated with the name of the flower. It comes from the name of the hero of Greek mythology - a beautiful young man named Hyakinthos (or Hyakinthus from Amikl), with whom the sun god Apollo was in love.

Once, during training in discus throwing, the jealous god of the West Wind Zephyr, who was also in love with Hiakintos, mortally wounded the young man. On the site of the spilled blood of Hyakinthos, a charming flower grew, which Apollo named in honor of his deceased loved one.

It will be possible to achieve flowering of this wonderful plant almost at any time. It is possible to time the blooming of buds for a specific holiday, making yourself a gift, for example, for the New Year.

The festive room will be decorated not only with a traditional Christmas tree, but also with a majestic living bouquet.

About how the distillation of hyacinths is carried out at home, it is a perennial or annual flower, and it is necessary to talk.

Hyacinth is a member of the Asparagus genus and a perennial bulbous flower. There are 3 types of it:

1. Hyacinth Litvinova. With wide spreading leaves and a shortish peduncle. Flowers with pointed petals, the predominant tone is bluish-blue. May be perennial or annual. In the wild (in the eastern regions of Iran and Turkmenistan), it grows for more than one year, and in culture it is most often used as an annual.
2. Hyacinth transcaspian. A small plant with narrow long leaves. There are usually more than two peduncles, the flowers themselves are blue and quite small. In the wild, flowering of hyacinths in spring can be seen in the mountainous regions of Turkmenistan.
3. The most common is, of course, hyacinth orientalis. It is he who is defined as a typical type of culture, and on its basis new varieties and various hybrids are developed, of which there are already more than 300. It has a variety of colors.

It is possible to carry out a very conditional division of varieties of hyacinth orientalis according to colors:

• blue (Maria, Delftblue, Royal Navy);
• whites (Ailos, Edelweiss, Argentina Arendsen, Carnegie);
• pink (Fondant, Jan Bos, Pink Pearl);
• red (Woodstock);
• yellow (Orange Boven, Apricot Passion, City of Harlem);
• violet (Amethyst, Bismarck, Menelik).

Hyacinth Mix is ​​a hybrid with double flowers that can have very different colors. This is a flower mix.

Growing hyacinths at home is not the same as in the country or in the garden. We must try to recreate the conditions as close to natural as possible.

It is not at all simple, but not extremely difficult to grow this plant. Any amateur is able to cope with this task.

How are hyacinths planted and cared for indoors?

The requirements for caring for a hyacinth in a pot are as follows:

1. The soil. A special mixture is used (turf, sand, humus, leaf earth and peat - in equal proportions). The soil in the pot must be calcined (thermally treated) before being used.
2. Lighting and location. This plant is very fond of light. He needs it at least 15-16 hours a day. Therefore, pots in which hyacinths are planted are best placed on the windowsills of the southern or southeastern windows. If this is not possible, then additional artificial lighting will have to be provided. On hot sunny days, plants should be shaded or removed from window sills to avoid sunburn. Hyacinth on the windowsill needs to be rotated occasionally so that the flower is symmetrical.
3. Temperature. Hyacinths are quite demanding on the air temperature in the room (+20…+22°С). They can not stand drafts, sudden changes in temperature and the proximity of heating appliances. You can imitate natural conditions by taking pots in warm weather to a balcony or loggia.
4. Watering and spraying. Watering is required very carefully and carefully. We exclude the complete drying of the soil. It is not allowed to get moisture on the plant itself: it can rot. Watering is carried out by immersion in settled, not cold and soft water. There is no need to spray hyacinths in pots. In the process of flowering, moistening is generally strictly prohibited.
5. top dressing hyacinths is carried out quite often. For this purpose, you can use any universal complex fertilizer intended for all indoor plants.

Bulb flowers in pots give abundant budding solely as a result of forcing.

And this is a whole complex of actions aimed at stimulating the plant.

Conditions are created for planting and caring for hyacinths indoors, the observance of which pushes the plant to active growth and generous flowering.

Bulbs - selection and preparation

It is extremely important for the quality flowering of a houseplant hyacinth to choose a good material for planting.

Bulbs should be strong, dense and healthy. They are not allowed to have damage (dents, scratches).

The weight should not raise suspicions about the presence inside the void, that is, the bulb should not weigh too little.

In terms of size, tubers with a diameter of about 5 cm are considered the most suitable. After purchase and immediately before planting, they must be treated with disinfectants.

To plant a hyacinth flower in a pot, you need to take only those bulbs that have already undergone a dormant period.

Anyone who bought material for planting in a store reasonably assumes that the purchased bulbs have already passed this stage. A repeat procedure is not required.

If you use your own planting material, then you need to take care of this in advance.

Hyacinth after flowering (in June) is dug up at the moment when the peduncle dries up and the leaves turn yellow. Then the bulbs are carefully examined and selected.

Storage of tubers at home during rest (rest) is as follows:

• the first two weeks after digging, garden bulbs should be kept in a humid and warm room (about 30 ° C);
• in the next couple of weeks, the temperature is lowered to 25 ° C;
• until the moment you need to plant hyacinth at home, the temperature background should be below 17 ° C.

Bulbs - planting and subsequent forcing

First of all, you need to decide on the date by which you want to get blooming hyacinth.

The forcing time varies depending on the selected varieties. It ranges from 13 to 20 weeks.

Flowering after early forcing occurs towards the end of December, after the middle - in January or February, and after the late - in the last decade of March or April.

The process of planting, as well as caring for hyacinths at home, is carried out in several stages:

1. The pot is selected. It is recommended to use fairly wide, but not very high products. They must have drainage holes.
2. Drainage (expanded clay) is poured into the pot.
3. Then a small layer of special earth is placed on top.
4. Now - a thin layer of sand.
5. Bulbs are planted on the sand. One or even several pieces can be placed in 1 pot (at a distance of at least 2 cm from each other).
6. The bulbs are slightly pressed in (not screwed in) and covered with earth. Landing is carried out shallowly, about a third of the tuber should remain outside.
7. Sand is sprinkled on top to prevent rotting of the planting material.
8. For 1.5-2 months, the pots remain on vacation in a cool and dark place. It could be a basement or even a refrigerator. The main thing is that the air temperature is stable within + 6 ... + 10 ° С. Care consists in regularly moistening the earth. The substrate must not be allowed to dry out. Hyacinth at home is placed in an artificial fall.
9. After this period, the flowers need to create an unnatural spring. They move to a well-lit room where the temperature is maintained within +10…+15°C.
10. At the moment when the buds appear, the plant is immediately transferred to the required place.

For long-term preservation of hyacinth flowers in an apartment, a constant temperature is required, not exceeding 20 ° C. It is recommended to avoid proximity to heating appliances.

You can not stop caring for hyacinth after flowering, otherwise the plant may die. When the yellowing of the leaves and the wilting of the flower stalks occur, watering and fertilizing should not be stopped. It is necessary to give the bulb time to recover.

After the final drying of the leaves, it is taken out of the ground, cleaned and laid out to dry for a couple of days.

If the hyacinth has well-developed children, they are separated. But if the small onions hold tight, it is better not to touch them.

You don't need to transplant them right away. How to store bulbs at home?

We leave it in a dark and rather cool place until late autumn, then we plant it in open ground. The bulb will take root well before frost.

Hyacinths that have already survived one distillation do not bloom again. They don't have the strength to do it.

Therefore, they should rest in the garden and will probably bloom next spring. You don't need to plant them in a pot.

How does hyacinth reproduce?

Propagation of hyacinths at home can be done in several different ways:

• onion babies;
• seeds;
• individual onion scales.

The reproduction of hyacinths by children is rightfully considered the easiest way for flower growers.

Daughter bulbs grow, as a rule, in a natural way, completely independently.

It is only necessary to carefully separate them from the uterine bulb. The only drawback is the small number of children (from 1 to 9).

To increase the number of planting material, decorative methods of reproduction are used: incision (notching) and cutting (removal) of the bottom.

For this procedure, choose the healthiest, largest and most rested bulb. Then it must be disinfected and dried.

With the cutting method, the bottom is carefully removed so that a notch remains. Then the bulbs are laid out in boxes with cutouts up and stored in a room with a temperature of no more than 20 ° C.

After two to three months, children will grow along the edge of the cutout in a fairly large number (20 - 40 pieces).

The bulb with the children is transplanted into the ground for growing. When the growing season is over, you can dig up the tuber and divide the children.

Transplanted bulbs will have to grow for another 3-4 years before flowering.

With the method of cutting the bottom, several notches (2 - 6) are made, in which daughter bulbs are then formed. They will be smaller, but they will be larger.

Transplantation of hyacinths is carried out similarly to the previous method. Children grown by this method come to the flowering phase faster (years 2 - 3).

The plant also reproduces with the help of scales. They are simply separated from the uterine bulb and transplanted into the substrate.

When cared for properly, hyacinths will grow into full-fledged bulbs soon enough.

The most difficult way is growing hyacinths from seeds. It is used almost exclusively by specialists.

It is also the longest. It will take up to 6 years for a flowering bulb to form from a seed. Although caring for growing bulbs is not so difficult.

Hyacinth is a rather moody plant when grown in an apartment. Usually the fault is unskilled care. Here are some possible problems:

• flowers rot (watering is excessive or incorrect);
• buds fall (they got water when watering);
• leaves wither (insufficient lighting);
• leaves turn yellow (drafts occur);
• no flowering (temperature conditions are not maintained).

Hyacinth is one of the most charming plants, used both for garden decoration and for growing indoors. This flower, easy to plant and care for, exudes a delicate, beautiful aroma, giving a spring mood. At the same time, you can make it bloom even in winter, creating the necessary conditions for this.

Hyacinth: origin, appearance and main properties

The genus Hyacinth belongs to the Asparagus family, whose representatives are common in the regions of Central Asia and the Eastern Mediterranean, namely in the Balkans, Syria and Turkey.

The name of the primrose in Greek means "flower of the rains."

Hyacinth is a perennial herbaceous ephemeroid (a plant with a very short growing season). The time of its growth, flowering and fruiting falls in the spring, and during the period of hot summer, cool autumn and frosty winter, flower development stops.

The large dense hyacinth bulb has a rounded shape and is covered with thin membranous scales. The leaf blades are elongated.

Feature of the plant: during flowering, the size of the leaves is relatively short, and after the death of the peduncle, they grow up to 20 cm.

The flowers, which are bell-shaped, are decorated with thin and gracefully curved petals. The buds are numerous, on one racemose inflorescence they can bloom from 12 to 35 or more pieces. In the wild, the hyacinth corolla is usually colored blue or white, and the gamut of varietal colors is very wide.

Popular varieties

Hybridizers have bred a huge number of varieties with large flowers and a heady aroma, differing in the size of inflorescences, color, height of the peduncle, and flowering time. The most common include:

1. Royal Navy. Variety with double flowers of a rich purple hue.
2. Brooklyn. Variety with flowers of white-yellow-cream color with a darker center.
3. Raphael. A distinctive feature of the variety are semi-open flowers with narrow elongated petals.
4. Rosalia. The flowers of this variety of hyacinth are bright pink.
5. Ostara. A characteristic feature of the variety is bright purple inflorescences and a rather long flowering period (about three weeks).
6. woodstock. Purple-lilac hyacinth with a large inflorescence.
7. Midnight Mystic. The variety is a find of the last decade. Its characteristic feature is the original flowers of almost black color.
8. Carnegie. Variety with magnificent snow-white flowers.
9. Fondant. An elegant pink hyacinth, the petals of which are cast in mother-of-pearl.
10. Orange Bowen. The variety boasts salmon-apricot flowers with a yellow throat and dark pink perianth tips.

Photo gallery: varietal diversity of hyacinths

Variety Royal Navy - a hyacinth with double flowers of a rich purple hue Brooklyn variety - a delicate hyacinth with flowers of a yellowish color with a darker center A distinctive feature of the Raphael variety are semi-open flowers with narrow elongated petals The flowers of the hyacinth of the Rosalia variety are bright pink purple inflorescences and rather long flowering period Variety Woodstock - purple-lilac hyacinth with a large inflorescence
A characteristic feature of the Midnight Mystery variety is the original almost black flowers. The Carnegie variety is a fragrant hyacinth with magnificent snow-white flowers.
Fondant is a graceful pink hyacinth with mother-of-pearl petals. Orange Boven boasts salmon-apricot flowers with a yellow throat and deep pink tepals.

Optimal conditions for hyacinth in spring-winter and summer-autumn: table

Planting a hyacinth and features of forcing a flower in an apartment

Under natural conditions, hyacinth is a primrose that blooms in mid or late spring. But indoors, flowering can be greatly accelerated and make the plant bloom by any date, such as Christmas, New Year or March 8th. To do this, the bulbs are taken out of the state of "sleep", creating certain conditions. The process is called "forcing". Hyacinths lend themselves to her quite easily. Luxurious fragrant flowers are easy to get at home.

There are two ways to grow hyacinth: in a substrate or in water. As a soil mixture, a composition of:

• garden soil;
• peat;
• sand.

All components must be taken in equal quantities and mixed thoroughly to obtain a light and loose substrate. Hyacinth also needs good drainage, it can be made from pieces of broken brick or expanded clay.

Pot selection

The container should be small, the best option would be to use pots with a diameter of 1.5 times the size of the bulb. You can also use wider bowls if you plan to plant several plants in one dish. In this case, select a container according to the size of the planting material, the bulbs should be located so that there is a distance of about two centimeters between them.

Store-bought hyacinths do not need to be repotted. The flower can only be covered with a paper cap so that the peduncle becomes larger.

How to drive out hyacinth in the ground: preparatory stage

1. Choose large and healthy bulbs that are over 5 cm in diameter. They are usually well matured, which means that the flower buds have had time to develop well and accumulate enough nutrients for excellent flowering.
2. Bulbs intended for forcing, hold for about a week in a dry room. During this time, they will ripen.
3. Put a layer of drainage in the prepared container, pour coarse sand on it, which will protect the planting material from decay.
4. Fill the container with the prepared substrate.
5. Plant a hyacinth bulb in the soil mixture, deepening it by half or two-thirds of its height.
6. Water the soil lightly, the soil should not be damp, otherwise rotting will begin.
7. Cover the pot with dark material, as the rooting process must take place in the dark.
8. Transfer the pot with the planted bulb to a cool room with a temperature of 5-9 o C. You can put it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, designed for storing vegetables, or take it out to the balcony.

Distillation of hyacinths planted in the ground

1. When the hyacinth leaves grow 8-10 cm, remove the dark cloth from the pot, transfer to a bright place and start watering the plant. Thus, the time for forcing the peduncle begins, which takes 3-4 weeks. Based on this, you can predict the time of flowering. For example, to get flowering for the New Year, you need to get a hyacinth from a cool and dark place in early December.
2. The temperature of the content of hyacinth during this period should be from 10 to 20 ° C. With a higher indicator, flowering will be short.
3. Accustom the plant to the room temperature gradually, as with a sharp change in conditions, the flower will begin to grow leaves at the expense of flowering.
4. Hyacinth during this period it is necessary to reduce daylight hours, because in bright light the peduncle will grow short. To do this, flower growers use a cap made of dark paper or cover the plant with an opaque plastic cup (first for the whole day, then for half, and then for part of the day). This simple device is recommended to be used until the peduncle rises above the leaf blades.
5. When the hyacinth begins to bloom, the cap can be removed and enjoy the flowering of the plant.

At home, hyacinth blooms for about two weeks, however, if the flower pot is transferred overnight to a cool place, this period can be extended by another seven days.

An effective option: how to properly expel bulbs in water

Manufacturers often use the method of forcing hyacinths in water. In this way, you can try to grow hyacinth at home.

1. Until September, keep the bulb at a temperature of about 25 o C.
2. Choose a container that tapers at the top to about 4 cm. Small vases or special vessels for forcing hyacinths are suitable for this.
3. Place a few pieces of charcoal on the bottom to help prevent rotting. To prevent it from floating up, pour a layer of coarse sand on top.
4. Pour water into the pot. For distillation of hyacinth, it is desirable to use soft water: rain or melt.
5. Place the bulb on the neck of the container so that the distance between the bottom and the surface of the water is 1–2 cm.
6. Wrap the container with the onion in dark paper and store it in a dark and cool room at a temperature of 4-8°C.
7. Periodically inspect the bulb and add water.
8. After about two months, long roots will develop, and the growth of leaf blades and inflorescences will begin. At this time, you need to transfer the flower to a bright, warm place with a temperature of 22–25 ° C.

Keep in mind that a growing hyacinth needs very good lighting, otherwise the peduncle will stretch out a lot, grow thin and weak.

Forcing flowers to certain dates (New Year, March 8, etc.)

If you plan to get the flowering of charming hyacinths by a special date, then you should plan the stages of flower forcing in advance.

1. In order for magnificent flowers with a delicate aroma to bloom for the New Year, it is necessary to start the preparatory stage of forcing already in the middle of summer. In July, the bulbs are removed from the soil, cleaned from the ground and laid for two weeks in storage at a temperature of about 25-30 o C and high humidity (approximately 90%).
2. After that, the temperature of the bulb content is reduced to 20–25 o C and kept under these conditions for about two more weeks.
3. Closer to September, the planting material is transferred to a cool place with a temperature of 10–13 o C. At this, the preparatory stage of forcing hyacinth for the New Year ends, and the direct process begins in October, when the bulbs are planted in pots after a rest period.
4. If you want the hyacinth to bloom in February, then forcing should start two weeks later, in mid-October. The flower will bloom in March if the bulbs are planted in the ground or put in water in early November.

Video: hyacinth forcing technology

How to care for hyacinth

Hyacinth cannot grow at home for several years. The bulb is subjected to distillation once. At this time, she loses a lot of strength and it is unlikely that she will be able to achieve excellent flowering again. After forcing the bulb can be planted in the garden.

Watering and feeding

Hyacinth is a moisture-loving flower. The plant must be watered regularly, after the top layer of the earth has dried. In this case, it is recommended to pour water only along the edge of the container, since the ingress of liquid into the axils of the leaf blades can cause the death of the hyacinth. The procedure requires soft settled water at room temperature. Ideally, if it is rain or melt. Additional moisture in the form of spraying the flower is not needed.

When distilling hyacinth in water, it is necessary to periodically add it to the vessel. Experienced flower growers recommend adding not water, but a weak solution of complex fertilizer. For top dressing, you can use a universal preparation for bulbs, diluting the solution in half the dose recommended by the manufacturer.

Hyacinths grown in soil mix also respond well to top dressing. The color of the flowers becomes brighter, and the flowering period lasts much longer. As a fertilizer, it is recommended to use universal preparations for bulbous or flowering plants. The procedure should be carried out 1 time per week during the period from the moment the leaves appear until the flowering of the plant. After this, feeding should be completely stopped.

Features of plant care after flowering

After the hyacinth flowers wither, the peduncle should be cut off. During this period, you should completely stop feeding, but continue to water the flower until the leaf blades turn yellow. During this period, the number and volume of irrigation should be reduced by about half. It is not necessary to cut off the yellowed leaves, they should die off naturally.

How to provide a hyacinth dormant period

When the leaf blades wither, remove the bulb from the pot. Dry it for five to seven days in a well-ventilated place at a temperature of about 20-22°C. After that, remove all dead scales and cut off the roots. Give the hyacinth bulb a "sleep" period, which should last approximately 3 months. During the forcing, the bulb is greatly depleted and it is impossible to re-expose it to the procedure. The plant can be planted in August in the garden and enjoy its flowering for several more seasons.

Table: consequences of improper care and what to do to solve problems

Methods for the treatment and prevention of diseases and pests: table

Hyacinth is practically not affected by diseases and pests, but only if the planting material was healthy and the care of the plant was correct. Sometimes, under adverse conditions, the flower can be damaged by yellow bacterial rot, and pests of hyacinth can attack root mites, stem nematodes and aphids.

Reproduction of hyacinths at home

There are various ways to propagate hyacinths: baby bulbs, bulb scales and seeds. As a rule, amateur flower growers use only vegetative methods, and seed hybridizers are used to breed new varieties.

Reproduction by baby bulbs

With natural reproduction per year, an adult specimen forms only 1–2 children (in rare cases, 3 or 4). They are separated from the mother bulb during digging after the end of flowering. The number of children can be increased by making a notch crosswise about 5 mm deep on the bottom. In a year, such a bulb will give twice as many children, which, after digging and drying, must be separated and planted for growing.

Reproduction by scales - a step-by-step master class

How to propagate hyacinth seeds

Hyacinth is propagated by seeds, planting them in the garden. It is very difficult to create the necessary conditions indoors, so this method has not taken root among lovers of indoor floriculture.

Many summer residents tend to grow hyacinths in their area, planting and caring for them in the open field require a certain amount of time. In this article, we will look at how to grow these beautiful flowers (even in regions where the ground freezes in winter), when to dig up hyacinths, how to store bulbs, and how to propagate your favorite variety.

Hyacinths in a flower bed (photo by Nadezhda Abramovich, Krasnodar)

In early spring, as soon as the snow melts, green arrows of hyacinths sprout from the ground. This flower with a charming and pronounced aroma differs in all shades of the rainbow. Inflorescences in the form of brushes can be both ordinary and terry in structure, 20-30 buds are usually located on the peduncle.

Planting hyacinths in the ground: the choice of bulbs and places for their planting

Perennial hyacinth is a bulbous crop, the size of the bulb may vary depending on the flower variety. Planting material is considered an adult by the age of 5-6, when it is fully formed. The tuber is a scaly sphere with a renewal bud - it is she who affects its growth. By the 5th year, adult bulbs usually acquire children, which form near the bottom and are hidden under the scales.

Hyacinth, photo of flowers:

When choosing tubers, you should pay attention to the following nuances:

1. Bulbs of terry species are often smaller in size, unlike their ordinary counterparts.
2. To grow flowers in the open field, the tuber must have at least 4 cm in diameter, a full-fledged active kidney and multiple scales. Elasticity and heaviness are indicators of the healthy state of the bulb.
3. The appearance of the bulb should be perfect - no damage, wilted sides, mold.
4. Root primordia should be present on the bottom of the tuber (near the bottom).
5. The bottom of a bulb suitable for planting should be about one and a half to two times smaller than the bulb itself (we are talking about volume).

The key to long and lush flowering is not only high-quality planting material, but also the place for planting. You can break a flower garden near trees or bushes, but not very close to them. The place for plants should be calm, well lit by sunlight. The soil needs loose, if your site is dominated by chernozem or loam, then it is advisable to add peat to it in advance (you can also sand). Soddy land or leafy humus are excellent conditions for the development, growth and flowering of hyacinths.

As a fertilizer, organics give good results, but you should not use manure. If the soil is acidic (pH above 6.5), then it should be diluted with dolomite (limestone) flour. Hyacinth tubers do not like excessive moisture. If on your site groundwater lies close to the surface (closer than 0.5 m), you cannot do without arranging high beds. In addition, the plants will have to provide a high-quality drainage substrate, as well as make a slight slope of the ridge - for a better outflow of water during rains, spring snowmelt. With the advent of spring, high beds warm up faster with sunlight, hyacinths bloom much earlier.

When to plant hyacinths

An acceptable time for planting bulbs is mid-September/October. It should be borne in mind that if you plant a tuber too early, it will begin to develop, but it will not endure the winter, it will freeze. If you plant hyacinths too late, they will not have time to take root and get used to the place - respectively, they will also die. If you are late with boarding, then hurry up by the first week of November - this is the latest date. To do this, you will have to resort to additional measures - to cover the planting site with fallen leaves, spruce branches or any other shelter to prevent the bulbs from freezing.

Can hyacinths be planted in spring? I often see that gardeners ask about the spring planting of hyacinths. Most likely this question arises if you bought or gave you a flowering hyacinth in a pot. How to be in this case with the bulb? First, let the flower bloom. Secondly, you should not immediately transplant the bulb into open ground. Let the bulb ripen: reduce watering, leave the flower alone, wait until all the leaves turn yellow and begin to die. It will take about a month and a half. After that, release the bulb from the pot and leave it in a shady place until September-October (the timing depends on the region). And then do as the tips recommend planting hyacinths in the fall.

Growing hyacinths outdoors

It is highly desirable to prepare the soil in advance - dig to a depth of about 40-45 cm and make the required additives (depending on the composition and condition of the soil). Limestone (200 g), wood ash (150 g), superphosphate (50-70 g), magnesium sulfate (10 g) or potassium (20 g) are added at an approximate rate per 1 m² of land. So that fragile young roots are not damaged during planting, digging the soil at the site of the future flower garden is also important. During the deepening of the bulbs, the soil temperature should be approximately 8-11 degrees, the distance between the tubers should not exceed 10-15 cm. If the flowers are planted in beds, then the row spacing should be approximately 18-22 cm. If you want different varieties of hyacinth bloom at the same time, make sure that all tubers are approximately the same size.

Hyacinth, photo of bulbs:

The place for the future flower garden is mulched with leaves or some other suitable material, covered with plastic wrap to keep warm. After the tubers are deepened, the area is sprinkled with sawdust or peat, it can also be covered again with foliage or coniferous spruce branches. Special covering material is excellent for these purposes. With the arrival of the first days of spring, the protective coating can be removed to make way for the hatching hyacinth sprouts.

As mentioned above, the bulbs must be healthy, but if you are still afraid of fungal manifestations, you can pre-soak them in a fungicide solution.

The width and depth of the hole under the tuber should be equal to two of its sizes - about 15-25 cm, you can pour a little sand on the bottom, and then deepen the tuber with the bottom down (about 13-15 cm). The bulb is sprinkled with soil, which needs to be lightly tamped, then watered.

The root system of the plant absorbs moisture and nutrients from the ground within a radius of about 20 cm from the tuber - this should be taken into account. Small onions should not be deeply buried, they should also be planted quite densely.

How to care for hyacinth

After the protective cover is removed, plant care will consist of weeding, regular watering, loosening the soil, and fertilizing. It should be borne in mind that hyacinths do not react well to the neighborhood of weeds. When the buds begin to set and the time for flowering comes, fertilizing the soil becomes especially relevant. After spitting the sprouts, the flowers can be fed with saltpeter (25-30 g per 1 m²).

The second stage of fertilizers follows during the period when the buds are gaining color. Now, in addition to ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride (25 g) and a phosphorus additive (for example, superphosphate, 35 g) can be added. At the end of flowering, superphosphate and potassium chloride are applied to the site - 35 g of each product per 1 m² of area. Fertilizers are processed between rows or places between flowers, after fertilizing, watering always follows.

Hyacinths - how to care after flowering? Unfortunately, this wonderful period is fleeting, after the flowers have dried, the roots should continue to be saturated with moisture. In order for the tubers to recover well after flowering, watering and fertilizing should come first. If you live in a “cold” region, then you cannot leave hyacinths for the winter, you will have to dig them out - these are the necessary measures for the further favorable formation of replacement buds.

If you live in the Kuban, in the Crimea, in the north of the Caucasus, then the annual digging of tubers can be avoided, but only if the summer is very hot. It should be borne in mind that the bulbs left in the ground will produce much fewer flowers next year.

When to dig up hyacinths after flowering

The optimal period is the last weeks of June - the first half of July, when the leaves of the plant become yellow and weak. The ground part of the flower is removed, the tubers are removed from the soil, washed with water and dried thoroughly. Next, we carry out an audit - we discard damaged (or with obvious signs of illness) specimens. If there are undeveloped children on the bulb, they are separated and set aside for growing. Before storage, all tubers must be treated against diseases and pests.

Planting material, photo:

After all the manipulations, the bulbs should be kept for about 7-10 days in a well-ventilated place at an air temperature of +17..+20 °C. To do this, they need to be laid out on clean paper, and after the specified time, hidden in paper bags. It is the period after flowering, as well as the time of processing and storage of tubers, that are the most important for hyacinths. At this time, the acclimatization of the planting material takes place, the scales dry up, the tubers are prepared for the summer period.

At a sufficiently high summer temperature, the bulbs should be provided with air access and moderate humidity (if the thermometer reaches + 30 ° C). About three weeks before planting, the temperature in the room with the bulbs should be lowered to +16 ° C - this will help them adapt before planting.

How to propagate hyacinths at home

Separately, it is worth considering the methods of reproduction, since the tubers can produce flowers for two or three years, but at the same time they will not form children. To do this, the bulbs need stimulation, it is carried out in various ways.

Cutting the bottom of a hyacinth tuber

Even when planting on the site, the place where the largest bulbs are planted is determined. After the leaves of the plant turn yellow, the tuber is removed from the ground and immediately, without letting it dry, they arrange a “shower” under strong water pressure. During this process, old scales are removed along with the earth. Next, the bulbs are laid out in one layer in a ventilated box, taken out to a shaded place, dried for about 7-10 days. After this time, with the help of a sharp knife, a wedge-shaped cut is made on the donut, in which the kidney and the donut itself are completely removed. The cut point must be treated with crushed activated carbon.

After this operation, the tubers are laid out in a container, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of perlite. Bulbs should be placed cut bottom up. Next, the container is placed in a large plastic bag (garbage bags can be used) to create the required microclimate. At a temperature of + 30 ° C and high humidity, children will appear at the cut site, and after 2-3 months they will reach about 1 cm, acquire the rudiments of roots and start up small shoots. If the cutting of the bottom was done in the first months of summer, then the tuber with the children can be planted in the soil and covered with sawdust (or peat).

If time is lost, then the tubers are turned upside down, placed in a container with soil, placed in the cold (refrigerator, basement), and with the onset of spring they are planted on the site.

After the hyacinths have faded, what to do with them next? With the onset of August, these tubers are dug up (by that time they are already covered with children), the children are separated. By the beginning of September, the young generation of hyacinths is buried in the soil, covered with a 10 cm layer of mulch (sawdust, coniferous spruce branches, foliage, peat). At the end of the first winter, the mulch layer is removed, but left in place after the second winter. In the third year, such hyacinths give color and delight you with a wonderful aroma.

Reproduction by scales from bulbs

Large tubers (about 5-6 cm in diameter) are cut into 4 parts, after which some scales are separated from the bottom, the “wound” surface is treated with crushed activated carbon. Next, a container is taken, at the bottom of which perlite or clean sand is poured, you can also use crushed charcoal with ash. Broken off scales are placed in this container, then it is placed in a transparent plastic bag, securely tied and aged for 2 months in not too bright light.

At the same time, the air temperature should be approximately +19..23 °C, but at the second stage, which lasts a month and a half, the temperature should be reduced to +16..19 °C. During this period, several bulbs will be tied on the scales. Keeping young livestock is similar to the method described in the first method.

Propagation of hyacinths by cuttings of a leaf

To do this, you should wait for the period of ovary of peduncles and separate a pair of sheets from hyacinths, they need to be cut as close to the base as possible. Next, the leaves are treated in a solution that stimulates root formation (for example, "Heteroauxin") and buried 3-4 cm in a container with clean sand (or perlite). This container, again, is enclosed in a plastic bag, tied up and placed in a moderately lit place for a month and a half. The air temperature should vary within + 10..17 ° С, humidity - 80-90%. After the specified period on the cuttings, you can see bulbous rudiments, and after 50-60 days - young roots and small leaves. Next, the plants are planted on the site, each cutting subsequently gives 6-10 children.

Incision of the bottom, as a way to propagate hyacinth

With this procedure, the bottom is not removed, as in the first case, but is cut crosswise. On large tubers, a pair of crosses is made, on those that are smaller - one. Damaged areas are treated with powdered activated carbon, then the bulbs are placed in a warm room (+20..22 ° C) for 24 hours in order for the “crosses” to open. All further actions are similar to the above recommendations. With this method of tuber stimulation, it is possible to obtain approximately 10-16 large young bulbs.

In order for these heralds of spring to please you with long flowering, splendor of tassels and amazing aroma, you need to make an effort. Now you know how to grow hyacinths, planting and caring for them in the open field, although they are difficult, are undoubtedly worth the time and effort spent.