Walking tour “Romantic journey in the footsteps of the novel “The Master and Margarita. Night walk in the footsteps of the Master and Margarita Master and Margarita individual excursion

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Information about excursions is easy to find on the Internet, so I will not advertise third-party sites. I will share my impressions of each.

All excursions visited are walking.

Moscow Master and Margarita.

Duration: 2.5 hours

Cost: 400 rub. / person

Start: Mayakovskaya metro station, on the steps of the Satire Theater

Description:

"The Master and Margarita" is not only one of greatest works Russian and world literature, it is also the most unconditionally loved, “plundered” into quotes, becoming a cult. Mikhail Bulgakov, despite all the fantastic nature of his novel, drew inspiration from the surrounding reality: the Moscow streets, houses and landmarks mentioned still exist, and the heroes had prototypes in real life. Following the guide, we followed in the footsteps of our favorite heroes of “The Master and Margarita”, visited the places where the events of the novel took place, learned a lot interesting facts related to its writing.

During the excursion we learned:

  • where is the “bad apartment” located and why is it called that
  • why does the novel take place on the Patriarch's Ponds and how is the temple blown up by the Soviet regime connected with this?
  • where was the bench on which Berlioz, the poet Bezdomny and Woland sat
  • who was Annushka in real life
  • what is MASSOLIT and where is the Griboyedov restaurant located?
  • what the capital and Muscovites were like in the 20s and 30s
  • in which alley did the Master and Margarita meet?

Excursions related to famous novel Bulgakov, there are two - one is night and lasts 5-6 hours, and the other, which we went on, is pedestrian and takes half as much time.

We met with the guide on the steps of the Satire Theater, which is considered one of the possible prototypes of the Variety Theater, where Woland held “black magic sessions”, and chervonets rained down on the audience from the ceiling.

Impression The excursion was very positive - I refreshed my memory of the events of the novel and at the same time learned a lot about Moscow, because the city is not just a backdrop for what is happening, but a full-fledged participant in “The Master and Margarita.”

I especially liked the guide Maria - a young, but very well-read, erudite and truly in love with the novel girl, who not only gave a tour, but very emotionally, with a fair amount of artistic talent, told us many interesting facts and freely quoted lines from the novel. Two and a half hours simply flew by. The excursion inspired us so much that upon arriving home we immediately downloaded one of the most famous adaptations of “The Master and Margarita” by Bortko and immediately watched several episodes in a row.

Now I really want to go on the same excursion, but at night, because this is an opportunity not only to visit more places associated with the events and characters of the novel, but also to better experience its mysterious, mystical atmosphere.

During the tour, there was no way we could miss the apartment known as the “bad apartment.” It was in this apartment that all sorts of devilry took place, which the competent authorities unsuccessfully tried to understand.

"Bad apartment" located at: Bolshaya Sadovaya, 302 bis, fourth floor, apt. No. 50. Bulgakov actually lived at this address (more precisely, on Bolshaya Sadovaya, building 10) when he first arrived in Moscow. He hated this apartment with every fiber of his soul (it was dark, the windows faced the wall of the neighboring house), hated the neighbors with their rude proletarian manners (one of them, Anna, became the prototype of Annushka, who spilled the oil), hated the atmosphere of a classic communal apartment with eternal squabbles and showdowns, and so in the novel the writer’s real apartment became a haven for Satan.

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In the courtyard of the house, which looks like a typical St. Petersburg well, there are two Bulgakov museums: one state-owned - right in the entrance where the “bad apartment” is located, and the second, in the next entrance, is private. The second museum is actually not a museum, but a cultural and educational center “Bulgakov House”, which was created because the writer hated “ bad apartment“, and he would not like that a museum was built in his honor in it.

At the entrance memorial museum M.A. Bulgakov was greeted by the museum’s staff cat - black, fat and imperturbable. Reincarnation of the same beloved cat Behemoth.

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It’s interesting that the houses around the museums are ordinary residential ones, and cars are parked in the courtyard.

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The cat Behemoth was waiting for us outside again. Apparently, he was accustomed to increased attention to his person and did not react in any way to camera lenses, enthusiastic exclamations and annoying “kys-kys-kys”

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In the next entrance is the entrance to the Bulgakov House. There you can buy souvenirs related to the novel and have a cup of coffee in the cafe.

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You can also take a photo with the inseparable hooligan couple - Koroviev and Behemoth.

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Imagine, I’ve been living in Moscow for 7 years, and I’ve never been to the Patriarch’s before this excursion! It turned out that the place is very pleasant and popular with young people, despite its dark past, including ghosts and a cursed house with 13 floors and 13 apartments.

The guide showed us a supposed bench on which Berlioz could sit, claiming that this is a man planning his life, and such historical figure, like Jesus Christ, did not exist at all, and the poet Bezdomny, who hiccupped from “apricot”.

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A monument to Bulgakov was never erected on the Patriarchs, but a sign appeared that everyone who read the novel will immediately understand. True, the title of the first chapter sounded slightly different: “Never talk to strangers.”

I also saw the Gothic mansion that belonged to Savva Morozov, which could serve as a prototype for Margarita Nikolaevna’s mansion, for the first time. Today the mansion houses the reception house of the Russian Foreign Ministry.

They say that the ghosts of the first owner, who suffered from depression towards the end of his life, and his inconsolable widow still wander in it.

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Excursion “Criminal Moscow”

Duration: 2.5 hours

Cost: 400 rub. / person

Start: Okhotny Ryad metro station near the Zhukov monument

Description:

Bustling commercial, cultural, religious life Moscow has always attracted the close attention of people of various classes and professions.

During the day, the shopping arcades were bursting with goods, enterprising merchants entered into multimillion-dollar deals, and in the evening numerous restaurants, taverns and taverns opened.

The wild life attracted the attention of many, especially criminals. The excursion tells about the criminal world of the capital of the 17th - early 20th centuries. We will walk from Red Square to Zaryadye, walk along Varvarka and visit the infamous Khitrovka.

During the excursion we learned:

  • where did the famous Vanka Cain begin his criminal activities?
  • which of the Kremlin towers was called Torture
  • which Moscow districts were considered the most dangerous
  • where the first Soviet maniac Petrov-Komarov was arrested
  • various cases from the history of the Moscow Criminal Investigation Department
  • Church of "policemen and thieves" of St. Barbara
  • the most criminal and dangerous district of Moscow in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Khitrovka

Impression: perhaps the most unusual and specific information of the three excursions visited. Still, it’s not every day, thank God, that you come across the criminal world, especially from long-gone eras. A lady with a child was present on the excursion, but I do not recommend anyone to take children with them - after all, stories about the atrocities of maniacs and murderers, about how in Moscow they became prostitutes and circumvented the law, are not for children’s ears.

On the other hand, I really liked the format of the excursion itself. It’s much more interesting to walk around the city when they tell you what this or that street is famous for, what was here before and who lived here. The guide Evgeniy pleased with his erudition and good preparation - it is clear that the person was very deeply immersed in the topic, studied various sources in order to present tourists with as much as possible interesting information on this topic. However, Evgeny still looked paler against the background of Maria with her “The Master and Margarita” - he often repeated himself, spoke without emotion.

During the excursion, I discovered those areas of Moscow that not only had I never been to, but that I didn’t even know existed.

For example, Khitrovka, famous in the 19th century for being the most criminal and dangerous district of Moscow. Gatherings of bandits took place here, at which they divided the stolen goods; prostitutes, beggars and other declassed elements lived here. Ordinary citizens were afraid to enter Khitrovka unless absolutely necessary.

“Khitrovka was a gloomy sight in the last century. There was no lighting in the maze of corridors and passages, on the crooked, dilapidated staircases leading to the dorms on all floors. He will find his way, but there is no need for someone else to interfere here! And indeed, no government dared to delve into these dark abysses...” writes journalist Gilyarovsky.

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Pevchesky Lane (actually Svinoy), where the dirtiest, most neglected Moscow night shelters for the poor were located. Today nothing reminds of those times, since the area was cleared of criminal elements during Soviet power and partially rebuilt.

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We went into the courtyard of the house where the famous Katorga tavern was located. The most inveterate criminals and crazy people gathered in “Katorga”.

It was about this house that Gilyarovsky wrote: “Katorga is a den of violent and drunken debauchery, an exchange for thieves and fugitives.”

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Film studio "Mosfilm"

Duration: 1.5 hours

Cost: 750 rub. / person

Start: entrance gate of the Mosfilm film studio (Sportivnaya metro area)

Description:

The excursion takes place on the territory of the legendary Mosfilm film studio.

During the tour we will see:

  • the famous Ferdinand from the film “The meeting place cannot be changed”
  • Favorite taxi from the movie “The Diamond Arm”
  • even the bicycle that Lenin rode
  • props and unique collection costumes worn by well-known and beloved actors
  • filming pavilions and scenery of old Moscow, walking through which we will feel like we are in a different era!

Impression:

Overall I liked the excursion, although I think that 750 rubles for an hour and a half is an unjustified price. The excursion itself is very limited space, although the territory of Mosfilm extends over several tens of hectares.

It was interesting to look at the retro cars that starred in our favorite Soviet films, but most of all, of course, we were looking forward to seeing the scenery of old Moscow, built on outdoors real size. Unfortunately, during our visit the decorations were in direct purpose- for filming a film, and we only saw the very edge.

The collection of retro cars is small, but stellar. There were also cars from “The Meeting Place Cannot Be Changed”, “17 Moments of Spring”, “The Diamond Arm”, “The Fate of Man”, etc.

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The same small exhibition of costumes made for various domestic films. Most impressive were the costumes from “Ruslan and Lyudmila” and the dresses of the daughters of Emperor Nicholas II.

Remember where this is from? "… Which interesting city!... Isn’t it true?...” “I like Rome better, sir...” “Yes, it’s a matter of taste... Why is there smoke there on the boulevard? And this is the house of writers, the Griboyedovs, on fire...”. M. A. Bulgakov. "Master and Margarita". Attentive readers and even literary critics have long recognized that Moscow in this work is not a decoration, but a full participant in the events. Let’s go on an excursion together today to Bulgakov’s places in the capital, my reader!


Well, of course, the veranda of Pashkov’s mysterious house, where Moscow mystics no longer used to gather for spiritualistic séances, was perfectly suited for Woland’s meeting with the former tax collector Levi Matvey, organized by Mikhail Afanasyevich Bulgakov, to decide the fate of the Master. As a preamble, I’ll tell you that according to the city legend of the eighteenth century, it is there, in Pashkov’s house, that evil spirits gather, and the Prince of Darkness himself, who flies to every great city once every hundred years, admires Moscow from the tower of Pashkov’s house.


Shouldn't we take a walk together through those corners of the old capital, where in the shadows of buildings and trees are hidden traces of the heroes of the novel and its amazing events... Either invented or recorded by the author? What should I start with?


Of course, from the spark that ignited the fire of events. Remember? Yes, remember how a tram took off from Ermolaevsky towards Bronnaya and inevitably, by the will of fate, Berlioz’s head was thrown onto the cobblestone slope of Patriarch’s Alley. Let's try to find where this could happen?


The Patriarch's Ponds - the former Goat Swamp - are still considered a mystical place. And that bench where the heroes of “The Master and Margarita” sat is considered the most popular place on the Patriarch’s Ponds. The only sad thing is that it is not highlighted or marked in any way, just as there is no monument to Bulgakov. The fabled goat and the hard-of-hearing bear here create a clear dissonance with the inaudible, mysterious music. Calculating the point where the apricot “gave a persistent smell of a hairdresser” is quite simple: if we came from the Garden Ring and turned onto Malaya Bronnaya, we walk just a little more and find ourselves at a tiny intersection, where, nevertheless, there is a traffic light. On the left is a modern “handsome” house of unimaginable complexity and luxury, clumsy in places, like an anniversary cream cake - the Patriarch house. At this very intersection, Annushka spilled sunflower oil... The tram stop, however, is long gone, as is the barrier, but cars fly out from around the corner like crazy, so the bad reputation of the place is maintained in the modern road interpretation. And if we, leaving the Patriarch’s on our right elbow, and Malaya Bronnaya on our left, at the very “end of the water” the far left bench is the same one where the action of the novel began.


By the way, the ghost of a black cat still haunts the Patriarchs. Locals They say that deep after midnight a huge black spot flops down from the wall of the house, and a huge black monster wanders around alternately on two and four legs. Rumors about this ghost have been “staggering” around the Goat Swamp since the 19th century, so Bulgakov could well have “picked up” somewhere urban legend and name the cat Behemoth, bringing him to life from a beautiful Moscow city tale in literary life...


Oh, these benches! These Moscow benches... You have seen everything, you know everything. In the Alexander Garden, Margarita Nikolaevna sat on one of the benches, positioned so that she could see the Manege. A little later, Azazello, leaning back on this bench, will cover the large carved word “Nyura” on it. Nothing is by chance... I know this bench. And you?…


“Love jumped out in front of us, like a killer jumps out of the ground in a dark alley. And it instantly struck us both. This is how lightning strikes. This is how a Finnish knife strikes.”


In accordance with the route laid out by Bulgakov, Margarita turned from Tverskaya into an alley and walked along this long alley. According to the most common version, she was walking along Bryusov Lane. Perhaps an amazing meeting took place where the monument to Aram Khachaturian now stands.




Mansurovsky lane, house nine. It is this tiny wooden house that best fits the description: “from the yard, several steps led to small semi-basement rooms with a stove... “Ah, in winter I rarely saw someone’s black boots in the window and heard the crunch of snow under them. There was always a fire burning in my stove. But suddenly spring came, and through the cloudy glass I saw first bare, and then dressed in green lilac bushes...”The house, preserved by some miracle of the Master’s genius and the glory of Bulgakov’s work, in close proximity to the urban planning appetites of the capital’s “golden mile”, stands exactly as it was described. And if snow removal equipment did not remove precipitation in winter, his windows would also be blocked by snowdrifts. Shall we look at it and turn from Prechistenka?


It’s getting dark... The first streetlights are lit on Arbat. Something flickered and went out in the mirror glass of the display case, a fuzzy image flashed, the air swayed, a lantern blinked opposite, clinking the frosted glass. How mysterious and unusual everything is at this time of high summer... Should we slow down our hasty pace and look around? What if... Remember?



“What are those steps on the stairs?... And they are coming to arrest us. Oh!.. Well, well...” A bad apartment is the most real address of all that is in the novel. Bulgakov's house on the Garden Ring - just a short walk from the Satire Theater towards the Patriarch's - is one of the most beautiful. This house with “income apartments” was built by the wealthy homeowner Yakov Pigit, who also owned the Dukat tobacco factory. One of the huge apartments at the peak of “densification” was turned into a communal termite mound by the builders of the new way of life. Not a “house-commune” or a “factory-kitchen” in the constructivist style, but not far from that. Bulgakov and his first wife Tasechka huddled in a room here when they arrived in Moscow. They were simply settled here by relatives. Life was according modern concepts unbearable - a corridor with many doors, a common kitchen with smoking stoves and squabbles and gossip. A half-mad Komsomol member was running around, whom the local inhabitants nicknamed “Annushka the Plague.” Then, with a literary idea, she was entrusted with spilling the oil... Moreover, the manager was a scoundrel who constantly demanded a bribe from Bulgakov for silence - after all, the young doctor lived on these square meters, in fact, illegal. And the greedy man, with his passion for banknotes, “fell” in the novel into Koroviev’s cleverly placed nets, and then, with dollars, and therefore into the hands of the competent authorities. Thought, especially a writer's, is material. Who knows if the real building manager might not later suffer the same fate for his sins?


But let's enter the courtyard of Bulgakov's house. The farthest entrance on the left, we go up without an elevator to the top floor and... we are in a small museum. There's practically nothing to see there. The apartment is empty. Except that huge photographs from the series “The Master and Margarita” decorate the interior. The graffiti on the stairs is much more interesting. The most valuable thing, perhaps, is the address. Bolshaya Sadovaya, 32 bis, apartment 50. Here the artist Woland and his troupe settled on Berlioz Square. Perhaps, again, the author’s thought “took revenge” on the writer’s neighbors by placing him side by side with them evil spirits? The easiest thing, of course, is to find the Satire Theater, the same variety show from where the civilians in their pantaloons later ran along Tverskaya, jumping out exactly in their obscene form onto the huge present-day Mayakovsky Square, where there was absolutely no place to hide. Where they served wonderful “fillets and pike perch a la naturel”... There, in Griboyedov’s house, there is now the Gorky Literary Institute, and not the Massolita restaurant.


Well, let's move on? “All five rooms on the top floor of the mansion, this entire apartment, which would be the envy of tens of thousands of people in Moscow, the three-leaf window in the clerestory, open but covered with a curtain, glowed madly electric light" There are eight houses in the city that supposedly belonged to Margarita. Maybe Spiridonyevka, maybe Ostozhenka? But the house of the architect Solovyov in Khlebny Lane is most suitable for the nature of the events.


You can see the mysterious alleys of ancient Moscow, along which Woland, Behemoth, Azazello and other heroes of the novel “The Master and Margarita” walked, on a tour of Bulgakov’s Moscow. Fascinating stories await you, interesting routes And unknown details, which will complement the writer’s great work.

We offer excursions:

  • pedestrian - if you are ready to explore every centimeter of mysterious nooks and crannies;
  • individual - the walk is conducted by a reliable guide, all of whose stories will be just for you;
  • night - for those who are not afraid to meet mystical characters in the dark;
  • on the famous red tram “302-BIS” - so that the impressions are as vivid as possible.

Where Margarita flew - walks through “Bulgakov’s” places in Moscow

Our route will begin in the area of ​​the Mayakovskaya metro station, where the Aurora Garden is located not far from the capital's Satire Theater. It was there that Bulgakov located the Variety Theater, in which the sorcerer Woland shone. The prototype of the theater was the Moscow music hall, which existed for only a decade in the 20-30s. last century.

  • Bad apartment. If you leave the Aurora Garden and walk a couple of hundred meters along Garden Ring, then you will come to her. There is a sign here with the name “Museum of the Bulgakov House” 302-BIS, and in the second entrance of the old Moscow courtyard-well, on the top, fifth floor, you will have an excursion to the famous apartment No. 50. An ancient staircase with gentle narrow-span steps leads to it, the walls of the entrance are painted with drawings from visitors, small interfloor windows have retained the flavor of bygone times.
  • Margarita's House. Researchers have not come to a consensus on which house according to the description most closely matches the one where the Master’s beloved lived, so on the tour you can see the most identical ones. Bulgakov liked to combine the characteristics of several objects into one. As you know, Margarita and her husband occupied the upper part of the house in one of the Arbat alleys, next to it there was a garden and a fence, and a window looked out into the garden, through which Margarita loved to look. The first building is located on the street. Spiridonovka. The second similar house is located in Maly Rzhevsky Lane, the third in Maly Vlasyevsky, and the fourth on Ostozhenka. You can decide for yourself which structure is more reminiscent of Margarita’s house.
  • Place of the first meeting of the Master and Margarita. If on an excursion to “Bulgakov’s” places from Pushkinskaya Square you turn to Tverskaya and walk along the odd side, then you will see Bolshoi Gnezdnikovsky Lane. According to most opinions, it was here that the main characters of the novel first met. Bolshoi Gnezdnikovsky is the most crooked of the nearby lanes, as determined in the book. In addition, here the writer once met his wife, who became the prototype of Margarita.

And on a walking tour you will see that famous corner of Malaya Bronnaya, where there was a tram turnstile, walk to the Herzen House, which became the prototype of MASSOLIT, follow Margarita’s flight route and get acquainted with other amazing places in “Bulgakov’s” Moscow.